Différences
Ci-dessous, les différences entre deux révisions de la page.
| Les deux révisions précédentesRévision précédenteProchaine révision | Révision précédente | ||
| how-to-grow-cacti-and-succulent-plants [2021/12/27 22:21] – yann | how-to-grow-cacti-and-succulent-plants [2021/12/28 00:02] (Version actuelle) – yann | ||
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| ====== How to grow cacti and other succulent plants ====== | ====== How to grow cacti and other succulent plants ====== | ||
| - | By [cf_membre yann|Yann Cochard]. | + | By [cf_membre yann|Yann Cochard].\\ |
| + | French version here: [[culture-des-cactus-plantes-grasses-et-succulentes|Culture des cactus, plantes grasses et succulentes]] | ||
| Cacti and other succulent plants are easy to grow; the main problem is that you have to " | Cacti and other succulent plants are easy to grow; the main problem is that you have to " | ||
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| * [[# | * [[# | ||
| * [[#Pests]] | * [[#Pests]] | ||
| - | * [[#Fertilizing]] | + | * [[#Fertilizers]] |
| //Note:// the information presented here does not suit all cacti, but a major portion of them. Moreover, it has to be adapted to your local climate. | //Note:// the information presented here does not suit all cacti, but a major portion of them. Moreover, it has to be adapted to your local climate. | ||
| - | __For information: | + | //For information: |
| ===== Watering ===== | ===== Watering ===== | ||
| Contrarily to set ideas, cacti need water. They can do without for long times, but if you want to see them grow and flower, you have to water them, but not in a slapdash manner. The points to be respected are: | Contrarily to set ideas, cacti need water. They can do without for long times, but if you want to see them grow and flower, you have to water them, but not in a slapdash manner. The points to be respected are: | ||
| * The soil should be allowed to dry out between two waterings. | * The soil should be allowed to dry out between two waterings. | ||
| - | * Watering means give a lot of water: all the soils should be completely wet. | + | * Watering means give a lot of water: all the soils should be **completely** wet. |
| * The water should drain rapidly; the pan should not remain in a pool of water (so no saucers under the pans!) | * The water should drain rapidly; the pan should not remain in a pool of water (so no saucers under the pans!) | ||
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| Temperature: | Temperature: | ||
| - | From 0 to 4° C:\\ | + | __From |
| Aporocactus, | Aporocactus, | ||
| - | From 4 to 10° C:\\ | + | __From |
| Akersia, Armatocereus, | Akersia, Armatocereus, | ||
| - | From 10 to 15° C:\\ | + | __From |
| Arrojadoa, Astrophytum asterias, Discocactus, | Arrojadoa, Astrophytum asterias, Discocactus, | ||
| - | {{ : | + | {{ : |
| + | Cactus under snow | ||
| ===== Light ===== | ===== Light ===== | ||
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| This is a delicate matter, because each cacti enthusiast has his own mixture(s). In general, we know that cacti live in very poor soil, poor in the meaning of contents of organic material. The soil should allow the roots to breath and the water to pour out easily. Personally, I started with the so-said mixture 3/3 earth-compost-sand. The sand has to have big grains, i.e. 2 to 5 mm. The compost has to be entirely decomposed. For some time, I avoided the earth because it gets hard quite rapidly. I now use lighter materials as " | This is a delicate matter, because each cacti enthusiast has his own mixture(s). In general, we know that cacti live in very poor soil, poor in the meaning of contents of organic material. The soil should allow the roots to breath and the water to pour out easily. Personally, I started with the so-said mixture 3/3 earth-compost-sand. The sand has to have big grains, i.e. 2 to 5 mm. The compost has to be entirely decomposed. For some time, I avoided the earth because it gets hard quite rapidly. I now use lighter materials as " | ||
| To learn more about soil matter, you may read this article: | To learn more about soil matter, you may read this article: | ||
| - | * **[[Le substrat et ses éléments]]** (in French) | + | * **[[Le substrat et ses éléments]]** (The soil and its elements, |
| ===== Pots and repotting ===== | ===== Pots and repotting ===== | ||
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| I am not going to teach you how to repot a plant, but there are some basic rules to be respected. The old soil has to be taken off as much as possible, taking care not to damage the roots too much. Then you can choose the size of the new pot, unless the plant can remain in the former one. In order to assure correct draining, I put a layer of big sized sand on the bottom of the pot, or even pebbles for the big plants. This is followed by the soil mixture and the plant, and then finally another layer of big sized sand or gravel (omit comma) for 3 reasons. 1: avoid moisture around the collar of the plant, the sensible part. 2: avoid digging holes by watering. 3: it gives a nicer view. One the repotting done, I wait for a week or two before watering so that possible damaged roots have time to heal. | I am not going to teach you how to repot a plant, but there are some basic rules to be respected. The old soil has to be taken off as much as possible, taking care not to damage the roots too much. Then you can choose the size of the new pot, unless the plant can remain in the former one. In order to assure correct draining, I put a layer of big sized sand on the bottom of the pot, or even pebbles for the big plants. This is followed by the soil mixture and the plant, and then finally another layer of big sized sand or gravel (omit comma) for 3 reasons. 1: avoid moisture around the collar of the plant, the sensible part. 2: avoid digging holes by watering. 3: it gives a nicer view. One the repotting done, I wait for a week or two before watering so that possible damaged roots have time to heal. | ||
| - | __Frequency of repotting: | + | __Frequency of repotting: |
| __When to repot?__ In general, in spring is best. It is better to repot cacti at the end of their winter rest, just before they wake up. That way, they can recover from the trouble caused and will be quite ready for a new year's growth. In fact, I repot in spring and in summer, unless the plants are flowering. | __When to repot?__ In general, in spring is best. It is better to repot cacti at the end of their winter rest, just before they wake up. That way, they can recover from the trouble caused and will be quite ready for a new year's growth. In fact, I repot in spring and in summer, unless the plants are flowering. | ||
| To read more about repotting, see the article : | To read more about repotting, see the article : | ||
| - | * **[[Le rempotage]]** (in French) | + | * **[[Le rempotage]]** (Repotting, |
| ===== Reproduction ===== | ===== Reproduction ===== | ||
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| Cuttings: that means to cut of a part of a plant and root it to make a new plant. It works very well for offsetting cacti (Mammillaria, | Cuttings: that means to cut of a part of a plant and root it to make a new plant. It works very well for offsetting cacti (Mammillaria, | ||
| - | To multiply a plant by way of cuttings, it must be in full growth. You will need a clean, very sharp knife to take of the cutting. These have to dry for a more or less long time according to their size. A cutting of the size of an olive would need a week drying in a cool ventilated place free from sun. A mandarin or bigger sized cutting need to heal first and that can take up to several months. In case of doubt, wait longer. One of my nicest candles comes from the upper part of a head cutting that dried for over 6 months | + | To multiply a plant by way of cuttings, it must be in full growth. You will need a clean, very sharp knife to take of the cutting. These have to dry for a more or less long time according to their size. A cutting of the size of an olive would need a week drying in a cool ventilated place free from sun. A mandarin or bigger sized cutting need to heal first and that can take up to several months. In case of doubt, wait longer. One of my nicest candles comes from the upper part of a head cutting that dried for over 6 months! I even was told that pads of an Opuntia rooted after having spent 7 years in a cellar! |
| Once your cutting is dry, you should stand it on a quite mineral soil. You can, for instance, add a same quantity of big sized sand to your usual potting mixture. Watering is to be done very sparingly until the firsts roots appear. I use a large pan in which I put all the cutting made all along spring and up to the beginning og the summer. Normally, they will have rooted at the end of the summer and will be potted on at the following spring. | Once your cutting is dry, you should stand it on a quite mineral soil. You can, for instance, add a same quantity of big sized sand to your usual potting mixture. Watering is to be done very sparingly until the firsts roots appear. I use a large pan in which I put all the cutting made all along spring and up to the beginning og the summer. Normally, they will have rooted at the end of the summer and will be potted on at the following spring. | ||
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| The seedlings can be potted on at the next spring. Sowing produces plants of 1 to 3 cm in diameter in about 18 months, for most of the species. | The seedlings can be potted on at the next spring. Sowing produces plants of 1 to 3 cm in diameter in about 18 months, for most of the species. | ||
| - | To read more about the matter of sowing, see these articles : | + | To read more about the matter of sowing, see these articles: |
| - | Sowing in baggies | + | * **[[le_semis_en_sachets_v3_sowing_in..._baggies_english_version|Sowing in baggies]]** (in English) |
| - | Cacti sowing | + | * **[[Les semis de cactées]]** (Sowing cacti, in French) |
| - | A cacti sowing | + | * **[[Présentation d'une méthode de semis de cactées]]** (A method |
| ===== Pests ===== | ===== Pests ===== | ||
| Various pests appreciate our plants. | Various pests appreciate our plants. | ||
| - | The mealy bug prefers the aerial parts of the plants; it's the most frequently found pest. Some plants are very vulnerable; other seem to be immunized. Their presence is visible in the form of white cotton-like spots. Most often, the insect itself remains hidden, but from time to time, you can see it. It moves very slowly and looks like a small white woodlouse (up to 2 mm length). Contact insecticides are not very efficient against this bug, because it is hidden in its cotton, between the spines and the product does not reach so far. Therefore, it is recommended to use the so-called systemic insecticides. These are added to the water and enter the plant' | + | The **mealy bug** prefers the aerial parts of the plants; it's the most frequently found pest. Some plants are very vulnerable; other seem to be immunized. Their presence is visible in the form of white cotton-like spots. Most often, the insect itself remains hidden, but from time to time, you can see it. It moves very slowly and looks like a small white woodlouse (up to 2 mm length). Contact insecticides are not very efficient against this bug, because it is hidden in its cotton, between the spines and the product does not reach so far. Therefore, it is recommended to use the so-called systemic insecticides. These are added to the water and enter the plant' |
| - | Root mealy bugs: Just as the name says, this one attacks at root level. That's why special attention should be paid when repotting and the roots carefully inspected. I do not know whether these bugs are able to kill a plant but a treatment like above is recommended. | + | **Root mealy bugs:** Just as the name says, this one attacks at root level. That's why special attention should be paid when repotting and the roots carefully inspected. I do not know whether these bugs are able to kill a plant but a treatment like above is recommended. |
| - | Red spider mite: Just because its name implies that the color is red, be aware that it can be colored green or orange in addition to red. I have never had any yet, but there are plenty of ways to get rid of them. If you have any, a quick trip to your nearest garden center will be necessary. | + | **Red spider mite:** Just because its name implies that the color is red, be aware that it can be colored green or orange in addition to red. I have never had any yet, but there are plenty of ways to get rid of them. If you have any, a quick trip to your nearest garden center will be necessary. |
| In general, remember that most of these beasts lay eggs that are not destroyed by insecticides. Therefore, the treatment is to be repeated 2 or 3 times every 2 weeks. | In general, remember that most of these beasts lay eggs that are not destroyed by insecticides. Therefore, the treatment is to be repeated 2 or 3 times every 2 weeks. | ||
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| For very precise illustrated descriptions of these beasts, have a look at the on-line zoology, on the site of INRA. | For very precise illustrated descriptions of these beasts, have a look at the on-line zoology, on the site of INRA. | ||
| - | ===== Fertilizing | + | ===== Fertilizers |
| Cacti can live or survive with very little feed. But if you want nice strong plants, giving some fertilizer may help. | Cacti can live or survive with very little feed. But if you want nice strong plants, giving some fertilizer may help. | ||
| - | NPK ratio: | + | **NPK ratio:** it should be similar to 1:2:3 or 1:2:4. On this point, the opinions are somewhat divided, everyone has his own formula. |
| - | Liquid fertilizer: | + | **Liquid fertilizer:** this is the classic one, bought as a concentrate and diluted before use. Geranium or tomato fertilizer, is easy to find, and is perfectly suitable. Respect the dosage and use it at one watering out of two during the plants' |
| - | Fertilizer at slow diffusion: | + | **Fertilizer at slow diffusion:** this kind of fertilizer is sold in granules that are to be added to the potting mixture. A well-known brand is Osmocote, who sell a special cacti formula (NPK 1:2:4, plus trace elements). Its dosage is 3 grams (= a coffee spoon) for 1 liter of soil. This kind of feed is very easy to use: just mix into the soil and that's it! It can also be used at the surface. You can find it at most of your clubs or nurseries.\\ |
| - | Read more in this article: | + | |
| - | * Osmocote Plus: how does it work? | + | |
| - | Author : Yann\\ | + | Author: |
| - | Translation : Willy | + | Translation: |
| + | Updated: 2021-12-27. | ||
| < | < | ||
| - | License and copyright of this document\\ | + | License and copyright of this document |
| - | The original version of this document is available at this address:\\ | + | The original version of this document is available at this address: |
| https:// | https:// | ||
| - | You are allowed to publish verbatim copies of this document on any support, at the only condition that this note is preserved. | + | You are allowed to publish verbatim copies of this document on any support, |
| + | at the only condition that this note is preserved. | ||
| </ | </ | ||