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20 et 21 avril 2024
Foire aux plantes du château de la Ferté (Saint-Ambreuil, 71, France)
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20 et 21 avril 2024
Printemps aux Jardins (Aiffres, 79, France)
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20 et 21 avril 2024
Printemps du Bourgailh (Pessac, 33, France)
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20 et 21 avril 2024
Courtanvaux côté jardin (Bessé sur Braye, 72, France)
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20 et 21 avril 2024
JardiPlantes (Garlan, 29, France)
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20 et 21 avril 2024
Marché aux Fleurs - La Baule (La Baule-Escoublac, 44, France)
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le_semis_en_sachets_v3_sowing_in..._baggies_english_version [2007/10/01 22:52] – créée alainle_semis_en_sachets_v3_sowing_in..._baggies_english_version [2007/11/27 21:23] yann
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 ====== Sowing in... baggies ====== ====== Sowing in... baggies ======
  
- +[[/articles/le_semis_en_sachets_v3_sowing_in..._baggies|{{ http://www.cactuspro.com/images/drapeau_fr.png?30x20|Version française}}]] By [cf_membre alain|Alain Laroze], 2003/04/22. Translated by [cf_membre willy06|Willy Bovis].
-By [[http://www.cactuspro.com/membres/alain/|Alain Laroze]]. Translated by [[http://www.cactuspro.com/membres/willy06|Willy Bovis]].+
  
 The first edition of this article was published on the "Cactus Francophone" in 2000. A second edition was published in the magazine "Succulentes" (May 2001). Since then, I received many comments, suggestions and questions. Moreover, I have sown much more, giving me the opportunity to note some further details. Based on the 2nd edition, this 3rd one should give you a closer view. The first edition of this article was published on the "Cactus Francophone" in 2000. A second edition was published in the magazine "Succulentes" (May 2001). Since then, I received many comments, suggestions and questions. Moreover, I have sown much more, giving me the opportunity to note some further details. Based on the 2nd edition, this 3rd one should give you a closer view.
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     * Some kinds of pots or labels do not support heat. They melt. Therefore, first of all, make a test. For instance, black square pots of 5 x 5 cm do not resist, whereas the 6 x 6 cm ones do. In that case, lacking a heat resistant pot, sterilization can be done with bleach, but do not forget to rinse with sterile water.     * Some kinds of pots or labels do not support heat. They melt. Therefore, first of all, make a test. For instance, black square pots of 5 x 5 cm do not resist, whereas the 6 x 6 cm ones do. In that case, lacking a heat resistant pot, sterilization can be done with bleach, but do not forget to rinse with sterile water.
     * Take care, as the soil should be soaked in the beginning and should only start to dry at the end of the sterilization. The water, by evaporating, regulates the temperature. If no more water is left, the temperature may increase enough to roast the soil, melt the pot and labels or even burn all of it.     * Take care, as the soil should be soaked in the beginning and should only start to dry at the end of the sterilization. The water, by evaporating, regulates the temperature. If no more water is left, the temperature may increase enough to roast the soil, melt the pot and labels or even burn all of it.
-    * Adding fungicide and fertilizer is optional, but recommended. It is not necessary to add these if you work in a very clean way. However, it is a security in case of accident.+    * Adding fungicide is optional,. It is not necessary to add these if you work in a very clean way.
     * Also, the addition of fertiliser is not strictly necessary. In sowings executed without fertilizer, I have not noticed a real growing difference.     * Also, the addition of fertiliser is not strictly necessary. In sowings executed without fertilizer, I have not noticed a real growing difference.
     * It may happen that the seeds themselves carry micro-organisms. Some are harmless and do not attack the seedlings. But it also may happen that there are pathogenic fungi present. In that case a fungicide is used, or the seeds can be decontaminated with hydrogen peroxyde, diluted bleach, etc...)     * It may happen that the seeds themselves carry micro-organisms. Some are harmless and do not attack the seedlings. But it also may happen that there are pathogenic fungi present. In that case a fungicide is used, or the seeds can be decontaminated with hydrogen peroxyde, diluted bleach, etc...)
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     * This method is applicable to all cacti, but it is particularly recommended for the so-called difficult slow growing species : Blossfeldiana, Strombocactus, Geohintonia, Aztekium, some Parodia... In that case, one year in the "baggy" is needed.     * This method is applicable to all cacti, but it is particularly recommended for the so-called difficult slow growing species : Blossfeldiana, Strombocactus, Geohintonia, Aztekium, some Parodia... In that case, one year in the "baggy" is needed.
     * The use of artificial light is not really necessary, but then, attention must be paid to provide enough light without full sun.      * The use of artificial light is not really necessary, but then, attention must be paid to provide enough light without full sun. 
 +
  
 ===== The Breizh bed ===== ===== The Breizh bed =====
  
-This is a kind of table-box, made by myself, from material I recovered here and there. It is simply made of 5 wooden boards. 2 upright (100x30 cm) making the sides and in between 3 horizontal ones (160x30 cm). Under each of the upper 2, there is a ramp of 2 fluorescent tubes of 1m50 (58W, but it is not necessary to get them that strong) so as to have about 20 cm between the upper side of the pots and the tubes. Better is to use 2 kinds of tubes, 1 Home light (red) + 1 cool white (blue), in order to get the light spectrum the plants need. They are sold in any "do-it-youself" store or supermarket. There is no need for heating, since the neon tubes already heat very much (almost too much). Correct air circulation is required to keep the temperatures beneath 30° C. In my opinion, ideally one should maintain a temperature around 24 to 28° C at day and lower at night - around 15 to 20° C.+This is a kind of table-box, made by myself, from material I recovered here and there. It is simply made of 5 wooden boards. 2 upright (100x30 cm) making the sides and in between 3 horizontal ones (160x30 cm). Under each of the upper 2, there is a ramp of 2 fluorescent tubes of 1m50 (58W, but it is not necessary to get them that strong) so as to have about 20 cm between the upper side of the pots and the tubes. Better is to use 2 kinds of tubes, 1 Home light (red) + 1 cool white (blue), in order to get the light spectrum the plants need. They are sold in any "do-it-youself" store or supermarket. There is no need for heating, since the fluorescent tubes already heat very much (almost too much). Correct air circulation is required to keep the temperatures beneath 30° C. In my opinion, ideally one should maintain a temperature around 24 to 28° C at day and lower at night - around 15 to 20° C.
 A timer gives 12h30 as a day and 11h30 a night. That should be the same as the luminosity during the month of May. A timer gives 12h30 as a day and 11h30 a night. That should be the same as the luminosity during the month of May.
  
  
 ===== Pictures : ===== ===== Pictures : =====
- 
- 
     * [[http://www.cactuspro.com/images/a014-001.jpg|Sight of the baggies]] (17ko)     * [[http://www.cactuspro.com/images/a014-001.jpg|Sight of the baggies]] (17ko)
     * [[http://www.cactuspro.com/images/a014-003.jpg|Pots inside the baggies and outside]]. (25ko)     * [[http://www.cactuspro.com/images/a014-003.jpg|Pots inside the baggies and outside]]. (25ko)
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-By [[http://www.cactuspro.com/membres/alain/|Alain Laroze]]. Translated by [[http://www.cactuspro.com/membres/willy06|Willy Bovis]].+Author: [cf_membre alain|Alain Laroze].\\ 
 +Published2003/04/22.\\ 
 +Translated by: [cf_membre willy06|Willy Bovis].